- Chinese Waill in the “Bob”, between Benchmark Ranch and Lincoln, MT.
I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail. There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible. To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns. This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides). Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you. Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.
Now comes the controversy…Benchmark Ranch, MT: I didn’t meet Beverly. I sent her my package and my holding fee. I also spoke with her in East Glacier (not just leaving her a message) and told her my arrival date. My package was there waiting for me. I stayed there overnight on the porch of an unused cabin. Beverly wasn’t there and the ranch was closed so we had free reign but were nervous about that since we didn’t know any of the rules of the place. The walk to Benchmark was seemingly long for the 1.5 miles off the trail Yogi says it is. If it hadn’t been raining when I got there, then I probably would have resupplied, eaten dinner and hiked out but since it was raining, I ate there, camped there, and hoped that it was ok that I stayed on one of the cabins (not Beverly’s) porches. I am not sure if I would stop there again. It’s a fair bit of nerves not knowing for sure if she has your package out there or not. But it worked out for me so no complaints.
The other option is…Augusta, MT: I didn’t go to Augusta. When walking to the Ranch, we eventually got offered a ride by the first car that drove by… I am sure they would have taken us to Augusta since they have to go that way. Nocona and Bald Eagle went to Augusta and loved it. A few hikers have not intended to go there but had to because their package was not at the Ranch and they needed food. So, if you send a package to the Ranch, don’t send maps in it…carry your maps, that way if you need to go to Augusta for food, you can but getting maps and guide books there would probably not happen… otherwise, Augusta, Benchmark…carry straight thru…your choice.
Lincoln, MT: I had a great time in Lincoln. My friend met me at Rogers Pass and we went to Missoula from there. Then he dropped me back off at the Pass and I hiked to Flesher Pass. I wasn’t feeling great so WILDCAT and I hitched back to Lincoln (it took a while but we got it) and hung out with 8 other hikers. Then we arranged a slack pack from Flesher Pass to Stemple Pass and stayed another night and had a 4th of July BBQ with 8 or so hikers. Good times. I didn’t shop there, I only ate there once, there rest of the time, our hiker friends with cars got food while we were slacking and we just chipped in money.
Helena, MT: Helena was great. My friend Good-to-Go (Thomas McArdle), who hiked Glacier with me and Dad, lives there. He picked me up down town and drove me everywhere I needed to go. Helena could be pretty spread out if you don’t have a car. I think Mags stayed at the Lamplighter Motel (not sure) and he seemed happy with it. I stayed with Good-To-Go.
The Lodge at Many Glacier
I am frequently asked about town stops on the Continental Divide Trail. There are so many options that hikers in the planning stages typically want to get as much input in regards to trail towns as possible. To this end, I’ve created my take on CDT trail towns. This is in no way meant to replace Yogi’s CDT Handbook (and in the text I reference things she has said in her book and maps she provides). Yogi is a friend, I used and loved her handbook so visit her website and see if her Handbook is for you. Without further ado…CDT trail towns presented in a south bound order.
Arrival-Montana-Glacier National Park
I arrived in East Glacier in time to get the shuttle to Many Glacier. I got my permit in Many Glacier at the Ranger Station. I was going to camp in Many Glacier that night and get the shuttle to the border the next morning but it was yucky out. My next plan was to get a cheap cabin at the Swift current Motor in and leave a resupply package there but in 2007 it didn’t open until the 17th so instead, I stayed at the expensive (but on my Dad’s tab) Many Glacier Hotel. The Ranger (I had an awesome Ranger, Mark W.) let me keep my resupply package at the Ranger Station.
The next morning I caught the shuttle to the border…it was a thru hiker party.
Many Glacier, MT: Spread out and potentially expensive but if you’ve just spent two days in rain and cold and it’s still raining, then staying at Swiftcurrent might be nice. In 2007 the price for a cottage without a bath was $50. Depending on the time of year you are hiking, you might want to stop in at the Lodge on the walk into “town”. Have the front desk call the Swiftcurrent to see if they have rooms and to see if the restaurant it open. It’s a little bit of a walk to find out that it’s not open yet. If the Swiftcurrent restaurant is closed, The Many Glacier Lodge has a restaurant and a bar (eating at the Bar is cheaper). The Lodge also has a large fire place in the lobby so if you show up soaking wet, it’s a good place to dry off before you get lunch/dinner. We ate lunch (we only hiked 8 miles that day) at the Lodge and the Swiftcurrent restaurant opened for dinner so we ate there for dinner.
Two Medicine, MT: I think I ate 8 hotdogs for dinner there. They were good. You could hike 2 different routes that meet back up right before you cross the bridge to get to Two Med. I took the shorter route. I am glad I did, there was a ton of snow the other way (Dawson’s Pass).
At the store, you could buy dinner and snacks for the 10 miles to East Glacier here. I can’t remember if I did that or not. It was a decent store for a tourist trap and like I said, only 10 miles to East Glacier. As for camping here…let me tell you the hiker/biker sites are sub-optimal…ok they suck (I don’t typically use that word but it pretty much sums it up). They are all really gravelly. The better option (in 2006 this worked, but not in 2007) is to talk with the camp hosts (in 2006, they were nice…not too friendly in 2007) and if you are with a good number of hikers, ask if you can use the group site. It is much, much nicer camping.
East Glacier, MT: I rather liked East Glacier. I stayed at the Backpacker’s Inn (behind Serrano’s) one time and at a hotel (maybe the Circle R) that was recently upgraded. They were definitely different experiences. I think the Backpacker’s Inn could be a ton of fun with other hikers (it was in 2006) and really convenient to Serrano’s Mexican Restaurant (eat there) and the Glacier Park Trading Post (store) and the Trails End Saloon/Tavern where hikers have been known to live it up in the past. I sent a resupply package to the Trading Post but also bought a few things there since they held my package. They were super nice when I was there.
What did you think about Glacier National Park?
CFI's Yale Crew 2008
10 Resources for Getting into Trail Work
As many of you may know I am now working for the Pacific Crest Trail Association as their Southern California Regional Representative. I love hiking, trails (especially the PCT) and I am honored to be an advocate for one of our National Scenic Trails. Many people ask me how they can get involved with trails and how they could have a job like mine. I have listed 10 resources for people looking to break into trail work, trail maintenance, and/or trail construction. Without further ado…
- Professional Trail Builders Association: whether you are looking for a job or resources, this website will give you a great starting point.
- The Student Conservation Association: if you are 15 or older, you can get involved with this Conservation Association, check out their programs, opportunities to earn education awards and opportunities to live and work outdoors.
- The Rocky Mountain Youth Corps: if you are 16 or older, you have the opportunity to be on one of the Corps Crews, living and working outside, earning an education awards and having a great experience. I have worked with the Rocky Mountain Youth Corps (RMYC) before and they run a great program and support their crew members.
- Southwest Conservation Corps: another opportunity for those 16 and older. Southwest Conservation Corps (SCC) has a few offices in southern Colorado and Arizona and offers the opportunity to live and work in the outdoors.
- The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative: this is where I worked seasonally for two summers. They have many options from volunteering, to becoming a volunteer peak steward or applying for one of their field positions. If you are looking for experience, the Outdoor Leadership Intern (OLI) might be the position for you.
- The Los Angeles Conservation Corps: according to their website the LA Conservation Corps’ primary mission is to provide at-risk young adults and school-aged youth with opportunities for success by providing them with job skills training, education and work experience with an emphasis on conservation and service projects that benefit the community.”
- The California Conservation Corps: if you are between 18 and 25 this program could be for you. Even though they tout “Hard work, low pay, miserable conditions…and more!” as their motto, their mission is “protecting and restoring California’s environment and responding to disasters, becoming stronger workers, citizens and individuals through their service.”
- The Continental Divide Trail Alliance: this is the youngest of the three major organizations advocating for the three north/south National Scenic Trails. They have a volunteer program that grows every year. If you are in the Rockies, check out their “Get Involved” page.
- The Appalachian Trail Conservancy: the ATC runs tons of trail projects each year. To find out more, or to plan a volunteer vacation, check out their “Get Involved” page.
- The Pacific Crest Trail Association: did you really think I wasn’t going to mention the PCTA? Of course I am! Whether you are looking to volunteer or searching for a job, the PCTA may have something for you. Looking for volunteer work? Click on the “Volunteer” icon on the right hand side bar. Looking for season work? We usually post seasonal (and full time) job opportunities on the left hand side bar, but just to be safe, check out our “employment” page.
Bonus:
- The American Hiking Society: AHS runs many volunteer vacations. In many instances you may end up working with one of the groups I mentioned above as many of their vacations coincide with projects that the SCA, PCTA, ATC etc. are running. The AHS site give people a nation wide view of possibilities.
- The US Forest Service: The USFS has many opportunities for volunteering in your local forest. Just look up your local forest and look for volunteer opportunities. If you can’t find them on the website, give the Ranger Station a call, the should be able to point you in the right direction.
Any resources I am missing? Please let me know…
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The California Conservation Corps,
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Trail Magic: Steamboat Springs, CO
Trail Magic?
Trail magic is a wonderful occurrence that, if you are lucky, happens to you while you are hiking. It could happen when you are out for a day hike or a many thousand mile thru-hike. Trail magic is an unanticipated kindness bestowed upon you while hiking. It can be bestowed by a total stranger or a known party. These kind souls, all of them, are typically called Trail Angels.
I have been fortunate to have had much trail magic bestowed upon me during my hiking trips. It is amazing to be a part of these random acts of kindness. It really restores my faith in humanity and reminds me that there are wonderful people out there, and in a time where the news is filled with stories of atrocities that people inflict on other people, these acts of kindness rejuvenate the spirit and mend the heart.
I want to take a moment to reflect on an amazing Trail Magic bestowed upon me on the Continental Divide Trail. I want to share this story with you because I hope that it will remind you of how great people are. I hope it will encourage you to be a Trail Angel…or an everyday angel. I want to express my gratitude about my Steamboat Springs Trail Angel. Although, I am writing about one specific experience, one moment in time, there have been many Angels, in life and on the trail, to whom I am grateful. I hope they read this and know how much they meant to me and how much they still mean to me.
And the Story Begins…
I was about thirty miles north of Rabbit Ears Pass, where I would leave the trail for a quick jaunt into Steamboat Springs to resupply. I came to a cross roads, literally. There was a mass of dirt and gravel roads, some leading to a group campsite, some to various other places that I chose not to explore on foot, literally a cross roads. I wasn’t sure where the trail went so I decided to go into the group camp and see if anyone had any ideas. I came across an eclectic, enthusiastic, kind group of people on a work retreat. They were cleaning up from their camp out and I struck up a conversation with some of the members.
They were all very nice and friendly and pointed me towards a man who had been to this site a few times. He offered me directions to where he thought the trail was, in addition to pleasant conversation. There rest of the group chatted with me, asking me the usual questions. They packaged up some bread pudding for me to take with me for later and I asked them the usual questions, where are you from, what do you do for work, the usual.
They said they were from Steamboat Springs. I told them that I was going to visit Steamboat and asked if they could recommend an affordable but nice and clean place to stay. One woman, Julia, said “I’d stay at my house.”
I laughed thinking “duh Anitra, of course they’d stay at their own houses,” but, at that moment, Julia, made me an incredible offer that touched my heart, and put a spring in my step. She said, “Why don’t you stay at my house.” I told her that was very nice of her to offer but that I was going to be in town tomorrow afternoon and that might be short notice.
She said it was no problem, she would be out of town but she would leave the sliding glass door unlocked and I could go in and make myself at home with only two stipulations…don’t drink the wine and don’t go downstairs to the basement level. No problem.
She gave me her address and phone number, the name of the townhouse complex she lived in and the name of street on which the bus stop was located (Steamboat has a great, free bus system). I would call the next day from town to confirm that the plan was still on.
I got to town the next day and after doing a few errands with Old Bay and Corvid, called her to see if she had changed her mind or if she still felt ok about having a total stranger staying in her home while she was away. Luckily for me, she was still game to have me stay over and she even said that Old Bay and Corvid, whom she had never met, could join me.
The three of us did some more errands, including walking through the drive thru at McDonald’s, bought some supplies for the night and boarded a bus and found her home with no problems. The door was unlocked as she said and we were comfortable in Julia’s home.
The next morning, it was a Saturday, I watched a good bit of college football and decided to hang out until Julia arrived home. She invited us to stay another night and we gratefully took her up on her offer. We chatted and really had an enjoyable time. I also got to watch the highlights of Appalachian State beating Michigan in the Big House. A perfect Saturday!
Leaving Steamboat…
Sunday, Julia drove Old Bay and I up to Rabbit Ears pass and we each continued on our journeys. Both a bit more rested. I felt light as air, as not only my body had rested and healed a bit, but my soul had as well.
Julia, your magic, your generosity, and your trusting, giving nature are not forgotten. I can never possibly pay you back; I can only hope to pay it forward. Luckily, I know that paying it forward would be your preferred method of payment.
Thank you Julia, and all of the other Trail (and life) Angels out there, you make a difference and make my hikes more than hikes; you help to make them journeys.
Gear Review: Mountain Laurel Designs, Grace Solo Spectralite .60 Tarp
I used the Mountain Laurel Designs (MLD) Grace Solo Spctralite .60 tarp on my entire Continental Divide Trail(CDT) thru hike. I held up great and kept me dry in many a storm. It is minimal but had sufficient space to keep me and my gear dry. I did use it in conjunction with an MLD bivy for both bug protection, extra sleeping bag warmth, as my ground cloth, and for rain spray protection.
It shed freezing rain and light snow better than the other shelters I saw out on the CDT. In addition, any moisture on the outside of the tarp did not bleed through if I touched the inside of the tarp. I have always had problems with this when using Silnylon.
Being in quite a few windy, rain storms, I never had any doubts that the construction and stitching would hold up. I love this tarp and am ready to go at least another 2,000 miles with it! Thanks Ron and Mountain Laurel Designs, great product. –disclaimer, MLD was a gear sponsor on my CDT thru-hike.
